Crested Geckos and Gargoyle Geckos require very similar care. Both are semi-arboreal as well as omnivorous (meaning they feed on both insect and plant matter). Under proper care they have the potential to be very long lived- around 15 years! Both reach an adult size of around 8" (including the tail). An average weight for around both species is 40 grams (though some individuals can near 60 grams). The tail makes up about 10% of the total weight.

There are a few key differences between the two worth noting early in this care sheet. Crested Geckos are generally calm and tolerate brief handling well. Gargoyle Geckos tend to be a bit more robust and feisty. They also have smaller toe pads and therefore are not as skilled at climbing smooth surfaces as the Crested Geckos. Gargoyle Geckos are a bit less social than Crested Geckos and have a tendency to be slightly aggressive towards each other. If nipped or bitten off, their tails have the ability to regenerate unlike Crested Geckos. Due to their tendency towards aggression, gargoyle geckos should be kept in smaller groups and given more space. Keep an eye out for any bullying and be forewarned that some gargs need to be housed alone.

Housing

Crested Geckos and Gargoyle Geckos can be kept singularly or in small groups. If kept in a group, there should only be one male in the enclosure. Tanks that are taller rather than longer suit their semi-arboreal lifestyle best. The minimum size for an adult gecko is 20 gallons. Enclosures can be made of glass, plastic, or screen. If the enclosure is glass or plastic, a screened lid or side is required for adequate ventilation.

Setup

How the enclosure is set up is highly personal and will depend on many factors (size, location, time willing to dedicate, etc.) Some hobbyists choose to have a live planted vivarium whereas others choose a much more simplistic arrangement.

The basic requirements for any type of a setup are:
• Fresh water
• Substrate
• Foliage and objects to climb
• Hides

Vivariums can be a beautiful way to display your geckos but additional care must be given to the entire setup to ensure the environment is thriving and healthy for your gecko. A substrate mix of potting soil and peat moss is recommended. A layer 2" to 5" deep will support live plants. Scindapsus, Sanseveria, Chlorophytum, Asplenium, Ficus, and Bromeliads are several good choices. Plants with small leaves, thin stems, and any level of toxicity should be avoided. Remember that a good light source (be it natural or artificial) is necessary for keeping plants healthy within a vivarium. Vines and/or branches as well as some hides should be included as well. Some hobbyists choose to remove all visible waste while others stir the substrate with the aim of keeping it biologically active. Vivariums should have a rich, earthy smell. Take care that the vivarium does not become too humid or mold and mildew could quickly grow.

A simplistic setup, though decidedly more sterile to look at, can be much easier to maintain. Paper towels or newspaper can be used as a substrate and simply replaced when it becomes soiled. Silk plants can be used to add some green to your setup and the leaves can be easily wiped down during cleaning. Fake vines and branches will give your geckos some objects to climb. Hollow logs, curled bark, and coconut shells make good hides.

Temperature

Crested and Gargoyle Geckos are best kept between 70 and 78°F during the day and 65 to 70°F at night. A heat source is only needed if your home tends to stay on the chilly side. If you do supply your gecko with additional heating, be sure to aim for a temperature gradient within their enclosure not to exceed the temperature range recommended above.

Lighting

Being that they are nocturnal, these geckos do to not need any more than ambient room lighting. If you choose to light your geckos, keep an eye on the temperature within the enclosure and position the light so that your geckos can avoid it if they choose. Bulbs should never be placed within the enclosure. Incandescent lighting gives off some heat. Stick with low wattage bulbs, keep a thermometer in the enclosure, and make sure that any basking surface is a good 10" away from the light source. Fluorescent UV-B does not give off any significant amount of heat and can be used to show off the coloration of your gecko. It is also thought that UV-B lighting will help these geckos synthesize their own Vitamin D3 (a critical component of calcium absorption). UV-B lighting is not necessary, though, due to the availability of supplementation containing Vitamin D3. Many Crested and Gargoyle Geckos are kept with limited exposure to UV-B lighting and thrive.

Feeding

As mentioned earlier, Crested and Gargoyle Geckos are omnivorous and generally relish both fruit and insect matter in their diet. There are several different feeding regimes than can be followed, but we are going to outline (and recommend) the method we have been using with success.

All of our geckos (Crested and Gargoyle) are fed the powdered Repashy Superfoods Crested Gecko Diet (CGD). This Meal Replacement Powder is specially formulated to meet the dietary requirements of Rhacodactylus geckos. This diet can be purchased online or in some pet stores (where it is marketed by T-Rex). The CGD is very simple to use: one part powder is mixed with two parts water and served in a small dish.

Our adult geckos are fed Crested Gecko Diet three to four times a week and our hatchlings are fed almost every night. In addition to the CGD, we offer Dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia) at least once a week. Crickets and other feeder insects should be no longer than the width between your gecko's eyes.

A note on baby food: We still see many care sheets suggesting that Crested and Gargoyle geckos can be maintained on a baby food diet. While it is possible, great care must be taken to achieve a properly supplemented ratio of fruit and meat-based foods. Due to the ease of use and ensured proper nutrition, we HIGHLY recommend using the powdered Crested Gecko Diet.

Water

Some hobbyists supply their geckos with bowls of fresh water while others just spray their gecko tanks daily. If you choose to offer a water bowl, make sure the water level is appropriate for the size of your gecko. Water shouldn't be deep enough that your gecko could be completely submerged, especially with hatchlings.

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